Follow this guide to be sure your rear wheel is roadworthy before you head out for a ride.
There is almost always a tree, a gate or item of street furniture where you can hang your bike. If there’s nowhere to hang your bike, lay it down gently on the non-drive side so the chain doesn’t get dirty, and the rear derailer doesn’t get stressed.
Select a tool that fits the nuts exactly. They are most likely to be 15mm. Note the position of any washers between the nuts and the fork. Turn one nut a few degrees to check it can move. Unscrew the opposite nut fully. Return to the first nut and loosen it.
Remove The rear Wheel.
Stand behind the bike with your head on its centre-line.
Grab the left side of the bike with your left hand, the seat-stay or luggage rack is usually the best place.
Place your right thumb on the end of the nut on the right side. Use your right fingers to pull the derailler body back towards you so it rotates out from under the rear wheel.
Lift the bike off the rear wheel. The rear wheel will stay on the ground as the bike comes up. If it sticks in the frame check if there’s anything blocking it’s path, if not it may be that the frame is slightly too narrow for the hub in which case you can give the rear wheel or tyre a downward tap with your right fist to get it moving.
Unhook the chain with your right hand to lift the bike with your left.
If the frame is heavy enough to need two hands hold the rear wheel between your legs until the frame is clear then gently use your feet to let it drop to the ground on the left – non-drive – side. Hang the bike by the nose of the saddle from some convenient gate, fence, tree or other item of street furniture.
If the bike has longer horizontal drop-outs you may need to push forwards with your right thumb as you lift the frame. Some frames like this – especially if they are fitted with mudguards – may not have enough room to release the rear wheel while the tyre is inflated. In that case let the air out of the tyre to allow the rear wheel to slide forwards and out.